Short Row, Gusset-less Heels

Posted on by KateDos

Shadow Wrap Short Row Heel

This heel works well with an alternate color if desired as it does not cross over the instep.

Special stitches

KSW (knit shadow wrap): lift right leg st directly below next st onto LN and knit, move st just knit to LN with its twin
KDSW (knit double shadow wrap): work a second shadow wrap onto a KSW stitch
PSW (purl shadow wrap): slip next stitch to right needle and lift left leg of the stitch directly below it onto left needle, purl this stitch, then slip new stitch and its twin back to LN as one
PDSW (purl double shadow wrap): work a second shadow wrap onto a PSW stitch

  1. K to final stitch, KSW, turn.
  2. P to final stitch PSW, turn.
  3. K to 1 before wrapped st, KSW, turn.
  4. P to 1 before wrapped st, PSW, turn.
  5. Rep steps 3-4 until about 1/3 of the heel stitches are unwrapped sts in center of heel, ending with step 4.
  6. K unwrapped center sts to first wrapped st and knit together with its wrap. KDSW, turn.
  7. Purl unwrapped sts to first wrapped st and purl together with its wrap. PDSW, turn.
  8. K unwrapped sts to double-wrapped st and knit together with its wraps. KDSW, turn.
  9. P unwrapped sts to double-wrapped st and purl together with its wraps. PDSW, turn.
  10. Rep steps 8-9 until all heel sts have been worked, ending with step 9. There will be one double-wrapped st at each end of heel. 
  11. Knit across heel, working wrapped st at the end together with its wraps. Work instep in pattern. On back of leg, knit wrapped st at beginning of heel sts together with its wraps and knit to end.

German Short Row or Boomerang Heel

You may need to search for how to do a German Short Row to understand MDS (Make Double Stitch) and DS (double stitch), as they can be tricky – too tricky to list instructions here. This heel does cross the instep, making it more suitable for single colors or varigated yarns. These instructions do suggest two markers.

  1. Knit across heel sts. Turn.
  2. MDS, purl to last heel st, turn.
  3. MDS, knit to the next DS, turn.
  4. MDS, purl to the next DS, turn.
  5. Rep 3&4 until you only have about one third of the sts unworked, ending with the knit side facing you.
  6. Knit across all the remaining unworked heel sts and PM.
  7. Knit across all DS.
  8. Work instep in pattern.
  9. Now back on the heel sts, knit across all remaining DS. PM.
  10. Knit the original unworked middle sts to M, RM, k1. Turn.
  11. MDS, purl to M, RM, p1.
  12. MDS, knit to DS, knit DS, k1, turn.
  13. MDS, purl to DS, purl DS, p1, turn.
  14. Rep 12&13 until there is one DS left on each side.
  15. Knit across heel, knitting DS. Work instep in pattern. On back of leg, knit DS at beginning of heel sts and knit to end.

Sweet Tomato Heel by Cat Bordhi (Link to instructional YouTube Video)

This heel is worked in “wedges” with full knit rounds between each wedge, meaning it crosses over the instep. This makes it ideal for single colors and varigated yarns, but not self-striping.

Divide sock stitches into thirds. The heel is worked on the back two thirds. Place markers A & B at each end of the back section. If you are looking at the instep, marker A should be on the right and marker B on the left. You may want to move the instep stitches to a separate needle and the heel stitches either on magic loop, a second circular, or two dpns, depending on the method you are using.

WEDGE:

  1. Knit to A, turn, slip the first stitch purlwise, and purl to B. Turn.
  2. Slip first stitch, knit across to two stitches before the last turn. Turn, slip first stitch, and purl across to two stitches before the last turn. Continue these two rows until there is about 1 inch of stitches unworked.
  3. Begin knitting back across. On the stitches that were previously slipped, lift right leg st directly below that st onto LN and knit both stitches together (like a k2tog). So you will reach the first gap, *k1, k slipped stitch along with the stitch below, and repeat from * until you’ve finished all the stitches to marker A.
  4. Knit across instep in pattern.
  5. When you get to the other side, you’ll follow the same instructions to knit the slipped stitches along with the the right leg of the stitch below. But now the order will be k slipped stitch along with the stitch below, k1, and repeat from * until there are no more slipped stitches. K across to A.

Knit two more wedges as above for three total wedges. Move on to the leg, removing markers.

Fish Lips Kiss Heel

This pattern is not publicly available. Please purchase from Ravelry – I do recommend it! It is a fantastic tutorial that also talks about sock design so you know exactly where to place your heel both toe-up and cuff-down.

This heel works well with an alternate color if desired.